@ Vikas Sharma | Sr Journalist
New Delhi: Amit Aggarwal has long endeavored to bring in a new age of Indian bridal couture and establishing a distinct identity by engineering in innovative designs inspired by nature’s awe-inspiring forms; while effortlessly combining our country’s rich textile heritage and our commitment to environmental sustainability.
At a recent virtual reality experience titled ‘We Live in An Ocean of Air’ where the invisible connection between plant and human is revealed through breath. Amit Aggarwal experienced how the air we breathe travelled and uniquely illuminated every framework of the body. Bringing to light the wonderful architecture of the human and plant anatomy. ‘LUMEN’ is a celebration of that unique light that illuminates us and makes us the individuals that we are.
Taking cues from this experience, our couture 2019 collection ‘LUMEN’ draws its inspiration from organic structures of the human body that exchange an invisible energy through an overlay of framework, fluidity and form. The framework of the garment is created with layers of our recycled polymer understructures, the fluidity comes through the illusionary movement of textiles creating forms that come to life through the intricate motifs and embroideries.
A series of weightless gossamer tulle lace, organzas are meticulously hand embroidered and rendered with structural frameworks to bio-mimic the details of the human and plant anatomy. This has been explored by a range of hand done three-dimensional embroideries in various organic angular forms and motifs to give our textiles a unique visual and tactile quality.
This collection, blends an opaque color with its metallic tone and its iridescent hue making each shade into a superfluous flow of energy. A vibrant jewel color palette of emerald, petrol, purple and plum moves into neutrals of gold, blush, silver and ivory with an eclectic mix of neon tones. The transparency, opacity and reflection of these colors reveal the reaction and the flow of light through every hue in the collection.
The womenswear collection features traditional Indian silhouettes that blend with western ideologies of couture. Sculpted Edwardian bustles lend an edge to the quintessential bridal lehenga, while the brand’s signature sarees are reinvented with dramatically structured trails. The ensembles have been enhanced by sheer drapes and layers creating an illusion of color through a play of light.
The menswear collection brings forth sharp tailoring in classic styles with a touch of layering. Ceremonial Indian silhouettes are revived with modern three-dimensional hand embroidery fabricated in modern industrial materials, as well as Jacquards, silks and handwoven geometric textiles. The garments have been enhanced by draping layers, color blocking through textiles and highlighting it with intricate craftsmanship. This collection is for the traditional Indian man that has evolved and started accepting newer and innovative forms of clothing.
Our vision for showcasing our Couture 2019 collection ‘Lumen’ has been brought to life in collaboration with some of the leading designers and artists from across the country.
This year, marks another successful collaboration with Taani by Tanira Sethi to create one-of-a kind traditional textiles. The textile motifs represent natural life forms, converted into architectural formation. Her ideology comes together beautifully with the theme of our couture collection.
The installations for the set for the show has been designed by Ankon Mitra. In congruence with the concept of our collection. His work ‘The Ocean Within’ represents the play of sunlight and ocean waves. The forces of gravity and the geometry of the installation combine to allow the work to dance in air as it pirouettes and whirls above us.
For Couture 2019, we collaborated with Narayan Jewellers by Ketan and Jatin Chokshi. Their bridal collection features engineered designs inspired by the beauty of nature, striking an interesting balance between form and function. Their Jewelry showcases intricate craftsmanship with a perfect synergy of modernity and tradition.
Our couture collection has been teamed up with footwear designed in collaboration with Dyuti Bansal. Together, we created a collection of footwear which depicts geometry and architecture. The technique creates an inter-dimensional web with metallic and Ombre color scheme, which comes together beautifully with the couture collection designed by Amit Aggarwal.